We ended up staying 77 days in Mainz quite by accident. Technically, we were in Mombach, but we had intended a stay in Weisbaden, where my husband had been stationed in the military in the 80s. The cost of staying there was ridiculously high, and Mainz was close enough to take the bus or train to Wiesbaden for visits.

But because it was the first place Shadra ever stayed in Germany for an extended visit, it has become a fond favorite. Our timing could not have been better – we arrived just in time for fastnacht (the German version of Mardi Gras) and if there is a city in Germany that knows how to celebrate this revered holiday, it is definitely Mainz. (If you’re choosing a German city for fastnacht, Mainz’s parade is ten times better than Mannheim).

History of Mainz

The city of Mainz in Germany, although not as well-publicized as other cities in the country, has a storied history that goes all the way back to the Roman Empire. Initially known as Mogontiacum, the city was a military stronghold for the Romans not long after it was founded sometime around 13BC. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the area changed hands several times, being conquered by the Alemanni, the Franks, and the Holy Roman Empire on different occasions. Perhaps the most interesting part, however, is the influence of the Jewish community on Mainz. Mainz, together with Speyer and Worms, make up the ShUM cities. This area was considered the center of medieval Jewish life in Western Europe, and Mainz itself is still recognized as a capital of European Judaism.

Mainz Today

Today, Mainz is an amalgam of all the history that precedes it. This history is reflected in the museums, monuments, and places of worship that are seen around the city. One of the most comprehensive of these is the Landesmuseum Mainz, known in English as the Mainz State Museum. It’s an art and history museum that contains collections from various parts of Mainz’s history, whether it be prehistoric, Roman, Jewish, or Renaissance.

Those who are interested in the city’s history from an archaeological perspective may find interest in the Romano-Germanic Central Museum, which has a planned reopening for 2025. The city is also home to Judensand, the second-oldest Jewish cemetery in Europe. Judensand is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Carnival

One of the major draws to Mainz is its Carnival celebration. It certainly was a memorable experience for us.

One of the largest carnival events in Germany, it lasts for months, starting in November and carrying on until Ash Wednesday. Whereas Mardi Gras (also known as Shrove Tuesday) is widely celebrated the day before Ash Wednesday, Mainz also celebrates the Monday before on a celebration known as Rosenmontag (Rose Monday). ‘

Rosenmontag is considered the height of German Carnival, and includes costumes, dancing, heavy drinking, and parades. In Mainz, at least since the 19th century, Carnival has also had something of a political slant. It began in the 1840s, when people would take advantage of the celebration to protest against military occupation of the time. Even now, it’s not uncommon to see Carnival parades include political commentary and caricatures. 

We Highly Recommend Mainz

The appeal of Mainz is rooted in its vast and varied history, and it’s one of the reasons why it’s such a wonderful destination, despite not receiving the publicity of other German cities. Visitors are sure to be taken aback by the rich history and ever-present culture when they stumble upon Mainz, especially if they go during one of the Carnival months. The community of Mainz continues to grow, and anyone who comes by is bound to find something fun to do there.

How we got here: Eurostar from London, then regional trains

Where to stay: Vacation Home

Where to eat: Mexico Lindo (unfortunately, now permanently closed).

Tips: If you are able to travel in Feburary or March during Carnival, it is the best time to be in Mainz.

No matter what time of year you go to Mainz, be sure to go to the Marketplatz on any Saturday and immerse yourself in the local farmer’s market. It is one of the most extensive and diverse markets we’ve seen and there is truly something there for everyone.